A Vino Nobile born from the ancient Pievi of Montepulciano: Pieve Sant’Ilario

The future of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is tied to an ancient word: “Pieve”. From 2025, the DOCG regulations предусматри an additional designation on the label, through which Nobile—one of Tuscany’s iconic red wines—can be linked to a specific subzone of the vineyard area, identified by the historic name of one of the twelve pievi into which the Montepulciano area has been divided since the late Roman era. This new development is the formal recognition of what winegrowers and agronomists of Montepulciano have long known: in Montepulciano, every hill has its own personality and distinctive enological character.

Fattoria del Cerro has presented its first wine bearing this designation, Pieve Sant’Ilario: a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, vintage 2021, produced in a limited edition.

It is the result of a process that combines careful zoning, rigorous selection, and adherence to one of the most demanding production regulations in the Italian DOCG landscape—together, these elements give rise to a wine of exceptional quality, truly one of a kind.

Pieve Sant'Ilario by Fattoria del Cerro: a fine red wine rich in history

The name Sant’Ilario identifies one of the twelve Additional Geographical Units (UGA) of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, located in the south-eastern area of the appellation, where the vineyards of Fattoria del Cerro are situated. It is an area with a documented history dating back at least to the year 1000: a parish church dedicated to Sant’Ilario once stood here, and nearby Argiano was a solitary and wild place until, around 1100, the Counts of Chiusi donated a portion of woodland to the church. These details are recorded in the documents of the Leopoldine Cadastre from the early decades of the nineteenth century, the historical source on which the Consorzio del Vino Nobile based the delimitation of the new subzones.

The Pieve of Sant’Ilario stands out for its well-defined terroir: silty soils over compact sands, with clay-loam and silty clay-loam textures, rich in limestone. In the lower areas, approaching the Valdichiana, there are fluvio-lacustrine terraces with sands and small siliceous pebbles. These soils were formed from Pliocene sediments, when this area was a seabed. The vineyards extend between 250 and 400 meters above sea level, on land rich in clay and silt that gives the wine structure, minerality, and a distinctive personality.

 

The Pieve Project of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

The idea of the Pievi has a decades-long history: as early as the 1990s, the Consorzio of Montepulciano had already begun zoning studies, among the earliest in Italy. The path that led to the “Pieve” designation formally began in 2020, involving all the wineries of the appellation. The approach was twofold: on one side, geological and pedological research; on the other, historical studies reaching back to the Leopoldine Cadastre of the 1800s. By cross-referencing these data, 12 zones were identified, each with organoleptic characteristics that can be recognized in the wines produced.

The introduction of the Pieve designation also has a practical consequence: it certifies the exact origin of the grapes. The result is a level of territorial traceability that few Italian appellations can claim: each bottle bearing the Pieve designation tells the specific story of a single hillside, elevating Vino Nobile to the highest standards of international zoning—on par with the great crus of the world.

To guarantee quality, the regulations require a double tasting commission: an internal panel within the Consorzio that evaluates the wine before bottling, and the Valoritalia certification panel, which performs the final check on a sample taken from the bottle.

 

Pieve Sant’Ilario: the enological interpretation of Tenute del Cerro

The regulations for the “Pieve” designation are among the most restrictive in the Italian wine landscape—and the difference compared to traditional Vino Nobile is clear. The standard regulations require a minimum of 70% Sangiovese and also allow international grape varieties such as Merlot or Cabernet in the blend.

The Pieve designation raises the bar: Sangiovese (in its local expression, Prugnolo Gentile) must account for at least 85% of the blend; the permitted complementary varieties are exclusively native—Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, or Mammolo up to 15%, and Colorino up to 5%—while international and white grape varieties are not allowed. The vineyards must be at least 15 years old, managed directly by the estate that bottles the wine, and must comply with a maximum yield of 70 quintals per hectare (2.5 kg per vine), with no possibility of exceeding it. Lower yields mean greater concentration and aromatic complexity.

Fattoria del Cerro has chosen to go beyond the minimum requirements of the regulations: its Pieve Sant’Ilario is produced with 100% Prugnolo Gentile, as a single-varietal wine. The grapes are harvested in September. After complete destemming, fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats with a maceration period of about 15 days. Once malolactic fermentation is complete, the aging process in wood begins—barriques, tonneaux, and large casks—for a minimum of 12 months. The wine is then returned to stainless steel for finishing operations and finally bottled. Before being released on the market, the wine undergoes a further bottle aging of at least 12 months, for a total maturation period of 36 months.

 

How to serve and pair Pieve Sant’Ilario

The organoleptic profile of Pieve Sant’Ilario faithfully reflects its terroir of origin. In the glass, the wine shows an intense ruby red color tending towards garnet. On the nose, it is complex and ethereal: clear notes of ripe red fruits emerge, interwoven with hints of sweet spices that gradually unfold with oxygenation—a profile that reflects the influence of silty and clay soils derived from ancient marine sediments. On the palate, it is long and elegant, with excellent concentration and structure, and a savory minerality that echoes the land of Montepulciano. The 2021 vintage received 93 points from James Suckling. It is the wine that sits at the вершина of Fattoria del Cerro’s quality pyramid, alongside Silìneo and Antica Chiusina—and its production is very limited.

It should be served in medium-sized wine glasses at a temperature between 16 and 18°C. This is a wine that requires time and attention: both in the glass, where at least 30 minutes of aeration enhance its expression, and in the cellar, where its aging potential is significant.

For food pairings, its structured profile and persistence make it an ideal match for red meats, game, or wild game dishes prepared with long cooking times and spices, as well as first courses with rich sauces. Naturally, it is perfectly suited to traditional Tuscan cuisine, and especially that of Montepulciano: pici pasta, Chianina beef and Florentine steak, as well as Pecorino di Pienza cheese.

A collectible bottle: gifting Pieve Sant'Ilario

The limited production and the symbolic value of the first vintage with the “Pieve” designation make Pieve Sant’Ilario by Fattoria del Cerro a bottle that goes beyond the simple purchase of a fine wine. It represents a true piece of Montepulciano’s enological history—the first bottling of a journey that is redefining the geography of Vino Nobile—and this makes it a highly valuable gift for those who appreciate outstanding Tuscan wine. Even for collectors outside the circle of the most well-known labels, it is a sought-after choice, as the inaugural vintage of a new DOCG category awarded 93 points by James Suckling.

The label has been designed to leave a lasting impression: an elegant stylized black cypress, an iconic element of the Tuscan landscape, created through a cut-out in the paper. As the wine is poured and the level in the bottle drops, the silhouette of the cypress becomes progressively more visible—a design detail that transforms the bottle into an object meant to be displayed and preserved.

A tasting of Pieve Sant'Ilario at Fattoria del Cerro

We know well that the best way to understand a wine linked to a specific terroir is to taste it in the place where it is born. At Fattoria del Cerro, the largest private producer of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscan red wines such as Pieve Sant’Ilario can be tasted as part of guided tastings held in the winery or in the tasting room overlooking the amphitheater of vineyards, among the hills of Siena.

For those who wish to extend the experience and fully immerse themselves in the world of Montepulciano wine production, Relais Villa Grazianella—the estate’s wine resort, housed in a 17th-century villa in the Montepulciano countryside—offers a high-level stay with dedicated wine tourism experiences. Being able to stay overnight among the Nobile vineyards, organize a trek through the natural beauty of Tuscany, visit the Tenuta’s winery and its design-driven barrel cellar, observe the entire winemaking process, and finally end the day tasting a glass of Pieve Sant’Ilario is an invaluable experience for any wine enthusiast.